Tour through Slovenia and Croatia
Please refer to the pictures at the part "Deutsch"
Slovenia: Mravske Toplice 12. to 15. May 2009
Moravske Toplice was recommended because (again) of a famous thermal bath. Famous is the special „black water“ coming from 1.700m depth at +72°C. It has petroleum content (smells - no it stinks quite a lot) and it is supposed to be very healthy - you have to believe it. We visited the bath for 3 days and the petroleum smell is everywhere.
More you can´t do here and more we can´t report from Moravske Toplice.
Tomorrow we will leave. We have now enough from Thermal Bath´s.
By the way today I made my first (small) bicycle tour after nearly one year. A good sign - I am very happy!!!
16. Mai 09: Drive to Ptuj via Jeruzalem
After we run away from camping site Moravske Toplice we headed towards Jeruzalem. A beautifully sited whine growing area - hilly and very similar to the Toskany.
Small whine yards in between bloomy gardens and connected with papel allees.
The name Jeruzalem comes from the „Templer“ which created shelters in this area for the pilgrims. And the Templer brought a painting from Jeruzalem (Isreal) and put it in a small Chapelle here. This brought the neighbouring people to the idea to call the region / village „Jeruzalem“.
The most important product but is whine (today and in the days of the Templers. Since the romans 2000 years ago whine is cultivated here. And it is a good one. We filled our „whne cellar“ with Welsch Riesling.
We continued the drive via very tiny roads (and this with the big Volvo) towards Ptuj. This is the oldest town in Slovenia directly located at the banks ot the river Drava with and really old and pituresque center. It has a huge castle overlooking the town and the area which locates a nice muzeum.
Before us the Hunnes, the Kelts, the Romans and the Frankonians where here. During the Roman times the town (called Poetviona) had 40.000 inhabitants and was the most important center in the whole Province. It lay at the important trading route from the Baltics to Rome.
Besides sight seeing we had a good dinner in a nice Restaurant on the banks of the Drava.
17. Mai 09 Ptujska Gora - Wallfahrtskirche
The next we continued the tour. The program was a pilgrimage. The destination was Ptujska Gora - a very famous pilgrim church. The route again was tiny and very up and down (sometimes 20% steep) but the Volvo made it „without complaining“.
A real pilgrimage.
Ptujska Gora lays on top of a hill with a fantastic panorama view. The „old bishops“ new where to live. So being 15km of the castle of Ptuj the view was direct - „from Bishop to King“!
The gotic church from the 15th century is really beautiful - the Pope was also here - AND became his statue - and we....nothing...is this fair???
Our camping place was directly beside the church; very quite (except the bells ringing every quarter hour) -but again the view fantastic.
18. Mai 09 Festo in Ljubljana
Around noon we arrive in Trzin (a suburb of Ljubljana) at Festo Slovenia. There was a big hallo. And also I was quite excited to see a Festo company again after many months. The building I couldn`t recognise anymore - totally renovated (Corporate design) and of course the space extended - Festo Slovenia ist growing!!
Now enough space for future growth.
The evening we spent with Bogdan and his team with a vey interesting boat tour through Ljubljana - a totally different view of the city followed by a stroll through the old town and a dinner in an pitoresque restaurant. The food was good and the whine even better. We exchanged old experiences (retired person love to talk about good old days....) and we loughed a lot - a very very nice evening. Thank you Bogdan.
Slovenia is also very effected by the world crisis but it is a pleasure to see how Bogdan Opaskar handles this situation: always positive and nether frustrated. The whole team signals a positive spirit and I can imagine that customers buy rather at companies with such inspiring people. One of the reason why Festo Slovenia wins market shares.
I can say I saw a again the real Festo spirit.
Here some picture impressions
19. Mai 09 Lubljana
Today we slept exceptionally long - the whine??? or the long evening or both??
At noon we drove by bus to the center (it is always a good experience to take public transport in foreign countries. You come very close in touch with the locals.
We visited the beautiful market - worth to see. You find here everything: all kind of food stuff but also clothing and technical things. This markets are always fun.
Since we already new Ljubljana and since Rudi´s back was very stressed yesterday we went back rather soon to our „home“ and relaxed. Longer sitting is still a problem.
Here some picture impressions from Ljubljana:
20. bis 22. Mai 09 Sv. Ivan Zelina (bei Zagreb)
The way to Zagreb is more or less (in the meantime) all good „autobahn“.
In Zagreb we again went straight to Festo - Rudi seems still adicted.
Mr Babic showed us around and we discussed the next days.
He recommended to visit in the evening a small whine yard 30km outside of Zagreb. We happily agreed since we knew Zagreb already.
This whine yard „Lubekov Gaj is near to the town of Sv. Ivan Zelina and lays beautifully on a hill in the midst of whine growing fields. It owns a famous restaurant. The owner loves also old vehicles, trucks and tractors. He allowed us to stay and we immediately decided to spent two nights. To reach our place somewhere remotely we needed the first time our four wheel drive. But at the end we had the best place so far (see the picture).
The next day we made a nice stroll to Sv. Ivan Zelina.
Our „neighbor“ was a fasan with his „lady“. Unfortunately (for him) a second cock came and was interested in his „lady“. He had a lot to do to chase him away and he totally ignored us. So we could capture some nice pictures.
Mr. Babic and Jasmina adviced us lot what to visit in Croatia. Our map is now full of notes and markes. Thank you Jasmina!!!
23. Mai 09 Slunj - Rastoke
The next place to see is the nationalpark of Plitvice. On the way we passed Slunj (the first recomendation of Jasmina). Slunj lays on the banks of the river Korana and was in the past a very important mill town. The water power is extensively (and very clever) used. Many mills existed and they produced: flour, cotton, saw mill and even an textil washing machine existed. Today everything is a good renovated museum.
Besides some nice water falls can be seen.
By the way the river Korana is the same one which created the Plitvicer lakes.
Here some picture impressions
24. bis 26. Mai 09 Nationalpark Plitvice
Near the Plitvicer lakes we can only use a camp ground (free parking - sleeping) is not allowed. The hotel lobby tries to avoid this.
The camp ground is quite expensive (20.-€) and offers nothing. Except in this off-season there is plenty of space.
Plitvice Nationalpark was us recommended but we both where somewhat sceptical after seeing the plenty of busses heading there. We expected a tourist spectacle.
Some neighbors on the camp ground adviced to go very early.
So the first time after months we again used a clock (6:30h - puuuhhh is this early). A quick breakfast and on to the motorbike and up in the park. We were the only one on the street and the air and the ride nothing but beautiful. We were too early and had to wait. At 8:00 the park opened and the cashier was also not awake and very very unpolite. The entrance fee (15.-€) shocked us also and our perception of tourist nepp came back.
We entered through a gate and wow what a panorama, what a steep valley, what colours, we forgot to close the mouth!!
We went down to the lakes and the colours even became more spectaculus. Depending from which side the sun shines the water is either extensively turkis or deep blue. The water is absolutely clear. You see troutes like you would dive.
And the plenty of water falls. The highest 78m high.
We were totally overwhelmed and happy - no question of nepp.
YOU HAVE TO SEE THIS WONDERFUL SPOT - IT IS WORTH EVERY PENNY!!
After 5 hours of walking Rudi (and Rita) was exhausted. Also some days after I felt the Ischiasnerv quite a lot.
Today we will be heading towards the sea - Zadar. After 4 weeks on tour it is now time to see the real water!!!
Here some picture impressions
27. bis 30. Mai 09 Starigrad - Paklenica Nationalpark (bei Zadar):
On 26.5. we drove via Gospic to Karlobag at the sea site. The route is a east - west connection from the Bosnian boarder to the Adria and crosses very different vegetation zones (the green Middle-european zone with a lot of forest and the Mediteranian zone dry, rocky and with bushes. We had to cross the Velebit mountains - starting at 550m climbing up to 980m at the Velebit pass and than going down to sea level within few kilometers. The route is exceptionally beautiful and so interesting that even hours of sitting was now problem. The Volvo with his excellent motor brake did a good job. It is a real pleasure to sit so high and to drive this vehicle.
When we crossed the pass and saw the first time the sea Rita was so excited and expressed (very) loudly her excitement!! She has still a lot of this nice „childness“ or does she perhaps exists of 90% water??
But it so nice to see here great enthuthiasm!!
We selected Starigrad as next base because it is located very near to the Pallenica Nationalpark. Long before Starigrad the first campsites start but they are so small und with too many trees for our Volvo. Finally we found a somewhat bigger sized camp but also here no chance. Just before leaving the grandpa came and found a solution. We got on to the privat meadow of the owner. A very nice place just for our own. The owner family is reallynnice and friendly and the kitchen excellent (especially the fish plate).
With the info of Herwig Kirstein (thanks Herby) we came to know that our old friends Henning and Slava Fischer are also here in the Zadar area. We contacted them and we finally met again (after 10 years). We had a very long and nice evening together with wine and good food. The next day my back reminded me of that quite fiercly.
Bora - Bora: Not the „South Sea“ but a real „Croatian phänomena“
The „bora“ is a very strong wind coming from land towards sea. It is dangerous for the sailors. We experienced the „lady“ at it´s full force in Starigrad - and of course in the night. We woke up because the mobil home (15 tons) were shaking. The wind was accompaigned by a blizzard (lightning and thunder everywhere). We never experienced a similar natural force. We felt like staying at a ship on sea. We can not say we where fraightened but we where perplex about this forces, noice and light. Especially the noise of the rain and the thunder and you are in a camping car only few centimeters away from the „elements“. We slept not much this night but somehow we enjoyed also this new experience. Surprising to us the rain was mainly during night and in daytime it was dry. At the eve of the 3.day everything was over - a phantastic sunset rewarded us from the bad weather and the next day blue sky again.
Because of the bad weather we skipped the national park of Paklenica and drove with the sun and blue sea southwards to Vodice (a good tip of Slava and Henning)
31. May to 2. June 09: Vodice near Sibenik
The longest part of the trip we used the motorway. The area remembers us of the Provence in France.
Vodice has a very big harbour for sailing boats with an beautiful old center and many bars and restaurants. Luckily we were off saison. On the 31.5. Was a festival of all restaurants and bars showing their specialities togehter with local music. Of course we had to join this. The local music (akapella) is a croatian speciality. Young men sing (no music instruments). Excellents voices - „it goes under the skin“. The crowed is clapping and dancing - really participating. Croatians love music.
On Sunday we had a rainy day so spent the time by working at the vehicle, by writing the homepage and by washing. On day rain would have been enough to do all this but no it had to rain 3 full days - so finally we decided to leave Vodice. Can you do this also at home just to disappear if it rain 3 days??
On 1.6. we took a ferry (75 min.) a went to Sibenik
1. 6. 09: Sibenik:
Sibenik has a beautiful old center and lays on the river Krka (few kilometers of the sea.
The special visiting spot is the cathedral. Because of the construction (using very big stone blocks for the roof) it is part of UNESCO cultural heritage. Many tourists and many shops. Because of the rain we shortened the visit and we didn´t see much.
3.6. 09: Skradin / Krka:
Skradin is at the end of the Krka waterfalls and is a must to see. It is small but has quite a big yachting harbour. It is clean and nice and quite. We used the side of a parking place to stay overnight. The amount what they charge for the parking place is the same like staying on a campsite. But no alternative.
The next day we took our bikes to visit the Krka national park. Until you get to waterfalls you have to pass all the tourist nepp.
But the falls and the nature around the Krka is unique and a must to see. A lot of water (blue and turquoise) comes down in cascades. In between small lakes (cristal clear) with a lot of troutes and colourful butterflies. Now we imagined to have this paradies on for us - a dream.
Island of Visovac (Krka) with monastry:
We wanted to see this small island (only to be reached by ferry). The whole island consists of this monastry (Franziskans).
On the way we discovered a beautiful beach on the Krka. Nobody except us only waterbirds and fish - wonderful.
A small ferry boat brought us to the island. The monastry was for quite some time refugium for the Christians during the Turkish occupation.
There are still monks and they cultivate a beautiful garden with turkeys, goose, ducks, etc. Also the church is a small juwel. Everybody is peermitted to stay only for half an hour. Unfortunately - we could have spent hours.
Ride from Skradin to Bogatica Miljevacki:
The tour from Skradin northwards to the island of Visovac is beautiful - mountains and wild bushland. We crossed the Krka at the xecoond waterfalls Roski Slap. The route was marked in our map es especially pitturesque. And it was - than few meters before the bridge a sign: max. Weight 5 tons and max width 2,20 m (our vehicle: 15 tons and 2,50m). What to do?? To reverse - difficult. A local street worker came and (as I understood him!!??) indicated to try. We did. Rita lost few years of her life. But finally the bridge still exists. We are not in the Krka and we know now that all figures shown at signs have some built in margins.
And not beeing anymore responsible for the yearly turnover of a big company you need some other „highlights“ to drive up the adrenalin sometimes.
4. and 5. 6. 09: Agrotourismo at family Galic near the Krka Roski Slap:
We found a very nice place to stay overnight in Galici (a village with perhaps 10 houses. The family Galic (perhaps the owner of the whole village Galici) have a small camp a restaurant and a whineyard. Again very, very nice people. Of course our mobile kitchen remained closed and we ate excellent home made food. They have their own ham (a speciality of the region - it is dryed by the „bora wind“). Their own good white whine, own olive oil, own mutton. We enjoyed and stood one day longer.
The next day we made a trip by motorbike through bushland and the villages. A very nice experience
6. 6. 2009: Knin (near the border to BiH)
We selected for this journey a small local road through the „bushland“. It is a narrow dirt road 3m wide and if somebody comes alöng one has to drive into the bush. Rita drove this time and full concentration on driving was necessary. We saw snakes and turtles crossing the road.
Knin was during the Balkan War the center of fights within the Croatian territory and the seat of the provisiory Serb government in Croatia for some months. You can still see many destroyed buildings. Knin has one of the highest unemployment rate in HR. Everything looks depressed.
Thousand year ago Knin was the seat of the Croatiian King and in those time the capital of the country. A very big castle still exists on top of the Spas mountain. The view from top is overwhelming.
We decided to continue the drive and headed for Sinj. We drove along the Cetina river and wanted to stay overnight at the lake Perucko Jezero. The landscape is phantastic but no way to reach the water front. Only at the very end ot the lake we saw a small road - and off we were. With our 4-wheel drive we reached a beautiful spot and had to share this only with one fisherman and a young couple (Romeo & Julia).
7. and 8. 6. 2009: Sinj and drive to Omis
On our way to the Adria we visited Sinj. It has a beautiful center and seams quite flourishing. Perhaps due to a famous pilgrimmage (Saint Mary). A famous (partly golden) picture of St. Mary is worshipped and shall help for all kinds problems. Since I do not believe in such things I didn´t visit it and I don´t have to blame St. Mary if my back problem will not disappear..
From Sinj we took the direct route to Split We planned to stay 1 or 2 nights and than take the ferry to Hvar. But Split is traffic vice a monster. We couldn´t find any parking posibility and no camp site, Finally we decided to continue to Omis. We found a camp just before Omis. But next to the Adria Magistrale = loud und small. Omis is nice. Because it is near to the Cetina gorge very popular and therefor totally crowded. We visitied Omis, had our washing day and disappeared on 8.6.
Day: Monday 8. 6. 09
Place: Jelsa / Island Hvar
Weather: sunshine, 25°C
Acitivity: Drive from Omis to Jelsa / Island Hvar
Special remarks: We drove the fantastic coastal road (Adria Magistrale) to Drivenik and took a ferry to Sucuraj (Island of Hvar) 40.-€ for just 1/2 hour ride!!!
We wanted to find our own bay on this island and we took after 10km on the main road the first small road towards the sea. The road changed to tiny gravel road before it went down very steep. We got off and walked all the way down to the coast. What we found was a privat place with no chance to stay overnight. So we continued the main raod towards Starigrad. If I call it main road than because it is the only road on this island but extremely small that I had to completely stop if somebody came upfront. Besides the road was small it had now protection on the side. Sometimes 1m vertical down sometimes 10m. If you miss you are finished. Rita was pale (even more than the driver).
Finally we drove to Jelsa, found a campground (still closed - but open for us) directly on the shore with a beautiful view.
After this long ride we had a good red wine, we had a good Schnaps and excellent lamb chops with romarin and olive oil.
We walked to the interesting old center of Jelsa with its harbour and many cafe´s. The night was quite, fresh wind and good smell - simply gorgeous.
Day: Monday 9. 6. 09
Place: Jelsa / Island Hvar
Weather: sunshine, 26°C
Acitivity: Shopping in Jelsa / lazy day in the hammock interupted wiht Internet.
Special remarks: At 7:00 a.m. we took the bicycle to Jelsa to get fresh fish. We succeeded on the fish market and had two big seabass. Unfortunately they were not prepared for cooking yet but I had to remove all the inner parts first. Which I never did before. So I took a bucked of water, I big sharp knife and all my courage and started the work.
To make it short: After 10 min. I gave it up - totally frustrated and gave both fishes (10.-€) back to the sea. At the same time I decided:
# no fishing any more
# we only buy fish if they are prepared for cooking
# we will learn how to clean fish as soon as possible
This evening we prepared a very good lamp stew with noodles and had a very good wine from Austria. As a starter we had ham and melone - all the frustration about fish was forgotten.
Day: Tuesday 10. 6. 09
Place: Jelsa / Island Hvar
Weather: sunshine - partly cloudy, 27 - 29°C
Acitivity: bicycle tour
Tour to Vrboska (a very small and pittouresque village with marina). The tour was only 15km (not yet „Tour de France“) but my back didn´t complain - a good sign.
Vrboska is famous in the sailing community. Many nice boats in the harbour and the cafe´s and restaurants were full - a good atmosphäre.
Old stone houses and a specal church from the 15. century without windows (looks more like a castle) give a special feeling. We like the place.
Afternoon hammock, reading and working on the photos.
Late at noon two minibusses came with many teenaged children (it were two gipsy families). Within no time they were all over us. Touching everything and trying even to enter our RV. Rita shouted and got really angry. We pushed them out. Finally they wanted water and we showed them where to get it. In the meantime another camper came (an Austrian couple - Reinhard and Brigitte) and asked if we needed help.
After the gipsys left Brigitte got a bottle of champagne and we added a bottle of red wine and we celebrated our succession over the gipsys.
Day: Wednesday 11. 6. 09
Place: Jelsa / Island Hvar
Weather: op sunshine, 28°C with slight wind - excellent climate
Acitivity: tour with the motorbike to the villages of: Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirce with a sidetour through the mountains.
The plan was to visit the south coast (Zavala and Sveti Nedjelja). To do this you have to cross the mountain range (600 m - from zero). Today this is only possible through one tunnel (2,20 m height and 2,50 m width). When we finally reached the tunnel a big sign „motorbike not allowed“. I would have crossed but Rita protested and I gave in!! We then visited this small and very beautiful villages (we have already seen the first nameplates on renovated houses with German or Austrian names - the landscape remembers one very much to the Toscany.
We than climbed up the mountains through wineyards, olive tree fields, lavendula fields. Everywhere the smell of lavendula and jasmin flowers - just phantastic!
This ride inspired us so much that we took the motorbike again in the afternoon and visited Starigrad.
Also this town has italian influence (Venice) with a big yacht harbour and the biggest ferry harbour of the island. We had dinner in the restaurant „Antika“ - a good recommendation from Brigitte and Reinhard.
Day: Friday 12. 6. 09
Place: Jelsa / Island Hvar
Weather: sunshine, 27°C
Acitivity: Dairy, internet homepage, bread making, bicycle tour and hammock
Today we wanted to rest and do all the small things.
Late afternoon I had enough hanging around and took the bicycle, the camera just to go for a short ride on the coast (gravel road). Unfortunately many of this gravel roads end in „nowwhere“. So I had to walk through fields, Carry the bike on the shoulder and climb up very steep hills. I made nice photos from butterflies and after 2 hours I came „home“ totally exhausted - so much to the „relaxing“ day
Day: Saturday 13. 6. 09
Place: Jelsa / Island Hvar
Weather: sunshine, 28°C and a bit windy
Acitivity: With the motorbike to Hvar
We selected a small road passing all the villages to Hvar. We had to cross the central mountain range of the island (400m). This route is the best what I ever have seen. It goes up in serpentines to the top of the range and than many kilometres along the ridge. With just overwhelming view to both sites of the island with this phantastic colours and this unbelievable good smell.
The town Hvar was during the Venicean times (16. Sciecle) very rich and this still can be seen. Big buildings and very narrow streets. Restaurants and Cafes everywhere, a big yachting harbour - we enjoyed it.
The way back we visited the pittouresque village of Grablje. To come here we went up a tiny gravel road from zero altitude to 400m. Even with our Enduro ot was quite difficult - but we made it and Rita was more than happy to get off the bike.
Day: Sunday 14. 6. 09
Place: Jelsa / Island Hvar
Weather: sunshine, 30°C - it gets warmer day by day
Acitivity: Reaxing day - to do the washing, reading and intenet
Evening we had a nice dinner togethe with Brigitte and Reinhard. We grilled fish and Reinhard showed me how to clean them. It worked fine - thanks Reinhard.
The food tasted excellently. The next day Brigitte and Reinhard left towards home. We are happy to had the oppertunity to meet this two nice guys and we are looking forward to meet again - somewhere.
Day: Monday 15. 6. 09
Place: Jelsa / Island Hvar
Weather: sunshine, 30°C
Acitivity: Packing, empty all tanks. Drive to Starigrad.
Staying overnight near the ferry terminal at a old camp ground (closed).
Eating again at „Antika“ in Starigrad. Again it was good - recommendable
Day: Tuesday 16. 6. 09
Place: Dubrovnik
Weather: sunshine, 30°C
Acitivity: Tour with the ferry to Dubrovnik (7,5 h)
A special excitement was to drive on to the boat. The ferry had quite small ramp and door.
We just fitted through the door (we were the last ones to drive on). But than they couldn´t close the door. After the minutes they whole ship crew was around us. Some shouting, some screeming into a walky talky. Even one („the hercules“) tried to push me (a 15ton. vehicle. We couldn´t avoid to lough. I had to drive bakc and forth - nothing helped. Finally some vehicles in front had to remove some bike holders and other gear. At the end they could close the door but not even a paper had space between us and the door. And we had had more than one hour delay. Somehow we felt guilty.
In Dubrovnik there is only one camp ground (a five star for 30.-€ the night - but no choice). We used it to bring us, our clothes, our homepage and the vehicle in order. And we had only 15 min. to the center.
Day: Wednesday 17. 6. 09
Place: Dubrovnik
Weather: sunshine and quite humid, 33°C during night some rain.
Acitivity: Visit to the old center
The old center is a poor touristic place and totally overcrowded. Many Cruising ships (Queen Elizabeth, etc.) are here and many many big hotels (on the shore). All this people have booked „all inclusive“ and only visit the old town to look, to have a coffee and (max.) to buy some souvenirs. The result is you find in Dubrovnik center only such shops.
The old city is really something very special but with this masses not really enjoyable.
We decided today to leave Croatia tomorrow. Against our first plan to go straight to Albania we now plan to go first to Bosnia Hercegowina and than to Montenegro. This two countries (similar to Albania) are not at all touristic (yet) because of the heavy war in the nineties. So we expect to see some authentic countries.
Day: Thursday 18. 6. 09
Place: Dubrovnik
Weather: sunshine and windy, 30°C some clouds
Acitivity: Washing, making bread, visiting the fish market.
We successfully got some nice fresh fish and sqids for the grill this evening.
Otherwise cleaning and relaxing for the tour to Bosnia tomorrow.
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