There are 3 border crossing in Laredo - we were recommended to use the one 30km west via the „Columbia Bridge“. Here are much less traffic and trucks.

The control of our vehicle was easy. Unfortunately we ran into a problem to get our vehicle declared as a camper and not as a comercial truck. Nothing is mentioned in our german papers about a motorhome. So we had to convince the officials which took 3 hours. Otherwise we would have to pay much more and even more serious we would not have got the allowance to have the vehicle long enouth in Mexico. But finally our „Baby“ got the permission to stay 10 years. 

From Laredo we took „MEX-85D“ to Monterrey and from here the „MEX-54D“ to Saltillo (300 km). 

Here we stood overnight at the parking place of „Hotel Imperial / Blvd Venustiano Carrenza 3800“

GPS data: N 25.4568 / W 100.98556

A good and quite and safe place and very central located.

Saltillo we left early to cover the 600 km in one day to San Miguel de Allende (via „MEX-57“).

This town is just a dream.

Immediately we discovered one phaenomena: there are visitors who want to stay here few days and after weeks or months and some after years are still here. 

There is a reason:

This half a thousand year old colonial town is since 1926 completely under UNESCO world heritage. 

With its small steep stone roads, with it´s palastos, Spanisch arcades and Jacaranda trees it is more like a museum.

The town has more than 100.000 inhabitants and is located at an altitude between 1.900 and 2.000 m. And therefore with ideal climate conditions.

Plenty of restaurants, cafes and galaries make the stay enjoyable. Many American retirees live here. Besides San Miguel de Allende is the second most important place to learn Spanish. So a lot of young folk make this town lively and enoyable.

We like the friendly people the warm hearted atmosphere. So our 4 weeks stay will be pleasant - exept the hard work to learn Spanisch.

Place to stay overnight:

 "San Miguel RV Park and Tennis Courts

  Callejon de San Antonio #16, CP

  37750 San Miguel de Allende

  Guanajuato State / MX"

  GPS: 20.90767 N / 100.74918 W

  height: 6300 ft

  Tel: (415) 152 0659   or US: (561) 429 7017

  email: camping@sanmigueltennis.com

This place is recomendable, idealy located in walking distance to the center and the owner is very helpful and friendly.

Eating:

In San Miguel you will find hundreds of restaurants. We tried plenty. The only  one we will definitely remember is the "La BRASSERIE".

Here everything is perfect. The food, the price, the service - extremely friendly and fast -  and we have experienced very good live music.

Address: Restaurante La Brasserie

                   Jesus 11, Centro Historico, San Miguel de Allende, Tel. 152 3161

                   opening hours: 17:00  to  22:00

                   Lunch: Cafe de la Parroquia
                   Restaurante - Patio  ( 8:00  to  16:00) in the same rooms.

With this festival San Miguel de Allende worships a Jesus statue.
Mainly all the active participants are Azteques who are dancing in their traditional festive clothes. They mix Christian and Indian culture. A fantastic colorful festival with Indian music and beautiful costums and masks.
A short background: during the Spanish time in Mexico a carrier of this Jesus statue was killed by the Chichimeken Indians and the statue lost. Another group of Chichimecas - which were already converted to Christinanity - found the statue and brought it to San Miguel de Allende. And since then the city celebrates this day.

First of all thousand thanks to Bill (from Oregon) who took us with his rented car to this beautiful places. And Bill (since 9 years coming to Mexico) knows all places by heart and is „human GPS“.

The tour with Bill and Claudia led us to this historical town. Here Mexico declared his independence,

This very colourful town is known for it´s ceramic art work. When we were there it was the „day of drinking water“ and the children of all ages participated with exhibitions, paintings and parades.

A small and peaceful, nicely restored tourist town with a huge rock behind (monolith).

At weekends the Mexican City tourists are invading and enjoy the clean air and tranquility.

Many climb the steep rock - often without safety measure and without proper equipment - resulting sometimes in serious injuries.

One of the most beautiful city of Mexico. We most probably will visit it again.

It is known for its colonial architecture and is UNESCO World Hertiage.

Fantastic decorated churches, spanisch palazzos and shadowy parks full of colorful flowers.

Additionaly it is a juwel of mexican history: This was an important meeting point of the independence movement around 1810. And in 1917 after the mexican revolution the new radical constitution was worked out here.

In Queretero resided the only Mexican Emporer (an Austrian) Maximilian I. He was the younger brother of Emporer Franz Joseph of Habsburg (Austria) and was backed by Napoleon III. of France. When France withdrew his troups from Mexico Maximilian I. was cornered, captured and killed in Queretero.

Offers an ideal picture of a Mexican Colonial City and was the treasure chamber of Spain - 1/4 of Spains silver was excevated here. And is today listed in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Narrow and steep roads winding through hilly areas - mostly having cobble stones. Many stairs up the hills, tiny small roads, beautifull charming plazas, many colorful palazzos with arabic influence make this town so different and incredible different.

Modern engineers burrowed an ingenious tunnel network under the city to help overcome its crazy difficult geography. The unique result is a center devoid of traffic lights and neon signs - and relatively clean air.

But our „baby“ is too „fat“ and „big“ to enter the tunnel system - it had to remain outside of the city limits.

Summary: this town is worth visiting!!

Meeting point with Arturo at Cuitzeo:

GPS Coordinates of meeting point with Arturo at parking place „Mercado Municipal:

         N 19° 57.717

         W101° 08.236

         This could also be a good place to stay overnight

For time reasons we unfortunately could only stay 3 nights. But we diffinitely want to come back again next year. He knows so many places and can show us so many interesting things which on your own would be impossible to find.

Everybody can contact him and organise a meeting. Arturos passion is to show his beautiful region to visitors. We are most impressed!!!

Here the contact data of Arturo:

Arturo Barrera

Email: sanjuandellago@gmail.com

Tel: 443 228 3839

Homepage: www.sanjuandellago.com

Homepage: www.rvtourscaravansazteca.com

Unfortunately we had only few ours in the evening. But Morelia is definitely worth seeing. Frank and Sven - two Lufthansa pilots - whom we met already in Guanajuato, took us with their pick-up to the city. Many thanks to both of you - we had a great time together.

The main attraction is the „Plaza de los Martires“ and the „Plaza de Armas“. In between the huge and interesting baroque cathedrale with the German made organ pipe.

We will escpecially remember this town because after 5 months we had our first encounter with the local police.

First they wanted to fine Frank of 910.-Pesos of not having the emigration papers (he forgot them in the camper). We „negotiated“ a much better deal. On the way out a second stop. But Frank and Sven talked the police into a „friendly handshake“ without even being asked for any papers - well done Frank and Sven.

Cuitzeo at the „Lago de Cuitzeo“ - the second largest lake in Mexico. As per the recommendation of Bill we met here Senor Arturo Barrera (see above). We had a great time with him and Rita experienced a lovely Spa treatment in his Hacienda.

We can only recommend to contact Arturo if you are with your camper near Morelia or Cuitzeo.

Arturo made it possilbe for us to see how „pulque“ is made.

This ancient drink (2500 years of history) was used by the indigenous people. The priest drunk it to enter a „religious trance“ for some time - he was totally drunk after consuming pulque. And the „Azteques“ and „Mayas“ gave „pulque“ to their „sacrificial victims“ to make their „passage to the next world“ easier - at least a little relieve for the poor fellows.

We drove with Arturo and with the „master of pulque“ - an indigenous - and two of his grandsons to an Agave field.

Pulque is made from this up to 2 m high Agave plant. The heart of the plant is scrapped out and the juice of the plant collects in this mould. Every morning the plant is scrapped and every afternoon the juice collected. This procedure is continued for 1 month - than the plant dies. We tried the juice straight from the plant - it tastes very sweet. The next day Rudi had some stomach problems.

Normally the juice is collected, boiled, some sirup added and than it ferments. After few days it has enough alcohol and it tastes in between wine and beer - a little sour.

This drink is very popular in the Mexico City area - their are special pulque bars.

It was a interesting experience and we learnt something new - without the help of Arturo it would have been impossible to experience this - thanks Arturo !!!

At an altitude of 2.200 m Mexico City was 30 years ago a place with one of the best air quality in Mexico.  Today it is on a worldwide scale the city with the highest pollution. Also the growth rate is unique: 1950 with 2,2 mio. people; 1970 with 3 mio.; 1990 with 20 mio. and today nearly 28 mio. Inhabitants - unbelievable.

Firstly thousand thanks to you Bärbel and Uwe for your hospitality. To drive our „baby“ into the downtown area is perhaps the last real adventure on planet earth. And so we avoided this and parked our vehicle safely at the outskirts. Many many thanks for this Bärbel and Uwe.

After arriving at the house of Bärbel and Uwe Pflugfelder they drove with us to the city and showed us the famous „El Bazar Sabado“ at the „Plaza de San Jacinto“ - an artisan market. Absolutely worth seeing the excellent craftmanship of local artists.

Afterwards we visited the „La Hacienda de los Morales“. Building and gardens from the 16th century which hosts today one of the best restaurants. Fantastic gardens, rooms and even a own chappelle. We enjoyed the beautiful hours together and we heard that even Queen Elizabeth was here - wowwww!!!

At 8:00 early morning we were again on the way to „Palacio de Belles Artes“ - the cultural center of Mexico City. This 1934 built Opera House (Jugendstil) has a 20 to.!! Tiffany curtain made of glass. And we saw the new ballett „Folklorico“. We were thrilled about this presentation of music and dances of all cultural groups of Mexico - fantastico. A good thing to start the tour through this colourful country.

Afterwards we drove to the south tip of Mexico City - to „Xohimilco“. Canals and semi-floating flower and vegetable fields (chinampas) - built be the Aztecs and still existing. Even today this chinampas remain an important part of Mexico City flower and vegetable suppy.

The other part is touristic. With colourful painted boats the guest are poled through the canals. You can sit on tables and eat while boating.

Bärbel brought fantastic food and we had few very nice hours chatting, eating and listening to the „mariachi“ music bands. What an interesting and colourful day.

On our way to the hotel we visited the company Festo. For Rudi a highlight since he met old collegues after a long time again. Senor Schreiber showed us enthuthiastically the company. Festo Mexico is still one of the leading company within the Festo group and for sure one of the best companies in Mexico.

During the afternoon we took the double-decker „Turibus“. This is the best way to get a first impression of the city - and you can hopp on - hopp off where ever you want. We visited the „Zocalo“ - it was the center during Aztec time and is it even today. This huge palaza is surrounded by the Cathedrale (the largest church in the Americas), by the town hall, by the „Temple Mayor“, the „Palacio National“, etc.

Very early we went to the „Bosque de Chapultepec“ - walking because this is faster then talking a taxi in this unbelievable traffic.

We visited the world´s most famous museum - the „Museo National de Antropologia“. To see this is a MUST!!!

There is no better start to see Mexico. All and good informations about the pre-Columbian time as well as the life of different folk groups today. Please refer alos to the internet: www.mna.inah.gob.mx

After many hours we could hardly walk or stand anymore - we just wanted to rest - „taxiiii“

At the evening we decided to see the „Zocalo“ again under lumination. But „nada“ - nothing - no lights - just darkness.

Mexico has so many interesting sights that one easily can spent one month. We will come back in one years time!!!

In Teotihuacan you find the remains of an ancient city which was built over a period of nearly 1.000 years (from 200 BC until 700 AD). During this time impressive buildings and temples and pyramids developed. The political influence of this people reached until Guatemala (unfortunately not much is known of this tribe).

At the peak around 100.000 to 150.000 people lived here. Here you find the tallest pyramids in the Americas and the most impressive tempels.

At the beginning of the 8. century AD (at his peak)Teotihuacan was demolished - most probably by his own people. Different versions of reasons exist for the exodus.

This, still today, impressive site is best to be visited early morning (it opens at 8:00) when the light is ideal and temperature still cool. To climb the two pyramids (the sun pyramid is 65 m high) is a must be strenous. The view extraordinary. Also the visit to the museum at site is interesting.

Overnight place: 

           Teotihuacan Trailer Park

            Lopez Mateos #17

            San Juan Teotihuacan, CP 55800

 GPS:  N    19° 40‘ 58.0“

            W 098° 52‘ 12.4“

            Nice meadow with electrical connection, sewer and fresh water
            Friendly owner
            Near to the pyramid - we walked one direction and few minutes (walking) to down
            town.

From Teotihuacan to Popocatepetl the only way is to cross the outskirts of Mexico City - which takes a lot of time. After Ixtapaluca we followed the MEX 115 southwards and passing westwards the two famous vulcanos „Iztaccihuatl“ - 5.230 m high - and the second highest mountain the „Popocatepetl“ - 5.465 m high. Both were the main objective ot this direction - but both were completely hidden in clouds. A pitty - but next time!!

Overnight stay: 

In „Tlaltizapan“ in the „Centro Ecoturistico Ejidal Santa Isabel Las Pocitas“.

A well known „baneareo“ of the Mexican City people - very nice but unfortunately it was weekend and „Semana Santa“ and we had the feeling all 25 mio. Mexican City people were here.

GPS - Coordinates:   N  18° 43‘ 58.4“

                                   W 099° 06‘ 53.8"

Continuation to Valle de Bravo:

The next day we took very small country roads - with hundreds of „topes“ = speed brakers (some of them high as moutains). And it is a lot of fun to brake a 15 to. Vehicle down to 10 km/h and accelerate it again. This is the best way to have effecient fuel consumption. But very often we saw tire shops, bumper shops, etc. right behind the topes - is this by chance?

We drove from Tlaltizapan via Zacatepec and continued to Puente de Ixtla, via Ixtapan de la Sal passing by the "Vulcano Nevado de Toluca“ (is 4.690 m high and snow covered) to Valle de Bravo. A fantastic beautiful drive scenery.

We started in Tlaltizipan at an altitude of 900 m and 25°C and reached an altitude of 3.500 m near the vulcano and 8°C and had a hale storm. We needed light and the four wheel drive.

Unfortunately we couldn´t see much of the vulcano because of the bad weather.

We came in to Valle de Bravo at the wrong side and had to cross the whole town. With its narrow cobble road and out - projecting balconies it was again millimeter work until the police stopped us. He tried to explain us that we needed a special permit to cross the city - what a joke. We only spoke German with him and he got more and more frustrated. After half an hour he gave our driving licence back and wished us a nice journey - of course continueing through the tiny roads - but know we had the „blessing“ of the „mighty Mexican police man“.

  => Valle de Bravo:

Overnight Place: „Embarcadero Laumase“

                          San Gaspar del Lago

                          Carr. Valle de Bravo - Colorines

         Valle de Bravo

                         (this place is direct by the lake und very recommendable)

    GPS - Coordinates:  N   19° 13‘ 28.2“

                                      W 100° 08‘ 38.7“

  => City Valle de Bravo:

The location of this city is unique and it remembered us on the „Lago di Como“ in Italy. Un artificial lake from 1950 and the high pine-covered volcanic mountains give this impression. Additionaly the very special design of the houses with its red tile covered roofs reminds us more to be in the Alpes, in the Pyrenees or even in the Himalayas. It is one of the best conserved Spanisch towns in Mexico. The proximaty to Mexico City having so many weekend residencies makes the city reach. It offers a lot of activities like: hiking, horse back riding, hang gliding and water skiing. And very good restaurants, pubs and cafes. A place you can spent easily 1 -2 weeks.

  => the tour:

From Valle de Bravo we took the small but interesting MEX 15. It leads via Zitacuaro, Ciudad Hidalgo through high and pine covered mountains (2.900 m) to Morelia. From Morelia the MEX 14 has 4 lanes to Patzcuaro. It took us totally 5 hours for this 250 km but it was really worth.

The lake Patzcuaro - it is said to be the most beautiful lake in Mexico - is 3 km from Patzcuaro. Surrounded by pine covered volcanic moutains. The boat tour takes 1/2 hour and you see the steep island from quite far with its huge „statue of Jose Maria Morelos“ on top - a famous freedom fighter. The island should have be a marvel soem time ago. But today it is completely covered by (ugly) houses full of junk goods. But hte tourists still come.

Mexico is extremly religious (catholic), worships uncountable saints and has many processions every year. So of course also and specially on Easter. In the „Semana Santa“ the whole week you can find processions.

And the mexican catholicism is mixed with the original indian relgions of the Aztecs and Mayas. This very blood thirsty customs have entered the Christian habits. So is one procession here at the lake where the capture of Jesus by the Romans, his „crowning by thorns“ and his „Cruzifying“ is played - and their is real blood in this game. Here we didn´t want to participate.

On Good Friday we participated the procession in town in the evening. This one was harmless. But also very strange to us since this busy and load town was for 2 hours totally quite. No traffic and even the spectators (children, etc) didn´s say even „pieps“ - an unbeliebable atmospere.

Patzcuaro has today 50.000 people and lays at the southend of the Patzcuaro lake. It has conserved his old-spanisch architecture. The whole area is still today very populated by the Purepecha Indians. This tribe has never surrendered against the Aztecs and has collaborated with Spaniards against the Aztecs. They offered the Spaniards their women and because of this were called „Tarascan“ means „brother in law“ of the Spaniards.

Of special interest to see is the „Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Salud“, the „Museo de Artes Populares“ and the „Casa de los Once Patios“ a former monastry for nonnes and today a „must see“ with a lot of artists and nice local products. The whole area is famous for its copper products, wooden carvings, linnen and stiching work and lacker paintings.

    „Villa Patzcuaro“

     Avenida Lazaro Cardenas 506

     Patzcuaro, CP 61600

     Michoacan, Mexico

   GPS - Coordinates:  

    N   19° 32‘ 02.6“

   W 101° 36‘ 36.2“

A very nice and quite place, a meadow and many many flowers.

And downtown is 30 min. walking and the boat pier 25 min. walking 

From Patzcuara via Morelia and the MEX 43 to Salamanca and farther the MEX 45 via Leon to Aguascalientes and than Zacatecas. The route climbs to 2.500 m but is otherwise not so interesting.

Part of UNESCO world heritage it is an old silver mining town. It is of the beaten touristic ways quite north of Mexico City.

It´s rich and enormes churches and palazzios built from this unique red stones is worth the long way.

It is also the „secret museum town“ of Mexico. So the famous „Museo Pedro Coronel“ has even original paintings of Picasso, Chagall. Miro and many others.

With the tramway which leads across the town you have an fantastic view - and also from top of the „Cerro de Bufa“. And we hiked down from here back to down town.

Luckily the two weeks long music festical was just on when we were there. On even great singers like „Jose Carreras“ was in town - unfortunately 1 week earlier.

We had two exciting evenings here and we can recomend this town to other travellers.

„Hotel del Bosque“

   Periferico Diaz Ordaz S/N

   Zacatecas

 GPS - Coordinates:

   N    22° 46‘ 43.9“

   W 102° 34‘ 27.4"

This place belongs to the hotel and offers also a shower in the hotel. The postion is ideal - down town just walking distance and still a quite place.

From Zacatecas viar MEX 49 and than MEX 40 to Gomez Palacio. From 2.500 m down to 1.100 m.

We only used the little frequented tollroad. Until Jimenez the MEX49D and than the MEX45D. The whole tour is boring.

The 380 km to the border is deserted and not interesting. The tollroad MEX45D leads through desert with cactees and only if irrigated it can be used as farmland. Short before Ciudad Juarez we came into a dust and sand storm.

We liked Mexico very much. We have been only in the mountain areas around Mexico City  but the beautiful cities with old architecture, with happy and friendly people with their love for music and the good cuisine this all has been a very positive experience.

And to the fear for the crime: We drove a lot and we have been sopped by the police several times. But not once we had to pay anything and not once we faced problems. And we drove tousands of kilometers.

The only enoying thing: the thousands of „topes“ = „speed brakers“ = „we have no word in German for this“.

Please be with us on the continuation of our world tour - the second part in USA.

Please read our reports and see our pictures under heading:  USA part 2