Pazific Coast - Jan. 30. to ......2012:

Around 21:30 we disembarked in Topolobampo. Until we left the ferry and arrived in Los Mochis the only campground of the region was closed. We searched for a quite place in town luckely and we found one - also a save one.

The first day we drove to Celestino Gasca (south of Culiacan). We stood overnight at the campground „Villa Celeste“ - recommendable.

Next day to Mazatlan. Here we found the camp „Mar Rosa trailerpark“ - directly at the beach. This will be our home for the next 2-3 weeks. Reason: Rita has to undergo a major teeth operation. And in Mazatlan are the best dentists of Mexico. And besides this the city is quite interesting.

In the meantime Rita has finished the first and main part of her dental treatment. And she is most happy with the dentist. Dr. Isabel did a great job and Rita can recommend her full hearted. And the dental work was not a small thing.

Here is the address:

Dra. Isabel G. De la Cruz Fing

Av. Camaron Sabalo 357.local 4

Zona Dorada. Mazatlan, Sinaloa

Tel: 913 4643

Mobile: 669 163 1356

email: delafing@hotmail.com

For the implantats Dra. Isabel works together with:

Dr. Juan Lizarraga Gastelum

Dr. Juan has also done a great job. This people know what they do.

We made also a small movie about the city of Mazatlan.

    Link to the movie:

Mazaltan has a interesting history. Already in pre-columbian times the „Totorames“ - hunters, fishermen and farmers - settled here. It´s name was „Nahuatl = place of deers“.

The old town was built in the 19. century. In the 1930s the first travellers came. At the „Playas Olas Atlas“ the first hotels were built in the 1950s and in the 1970s the holiday scene went northwards and the „Zona Dorada = golden zone“ was built. 

But important for Mazatlan was the start of the restructuring program in the end of 1980s. And today Mazatlan has beautiful colored old houses and streets and also the „Av. Del Mar“ along the coast is worth seeing.

Mazatlan is also famous for its carneval. The third largest in the world. We hope to be still here when it starts.

There are many beaches here: Playa Olas Atlas - near the centre, Playa Norte, Playa Sabolo.

We stood overnight at the campground „Mar Rosa Trailer Park“ directly at the Playa Sabolo. Downtown we reached by one the many busses.

We often have watched the sunsets and enjoyed our sun-downer. We realized that sunsets with clear sky is not very interesting.

Yesterday we had partly overcast and had the most spectacular sunset ever. After the beer was finished and it became dark we thought leaving the cinema. Unbelievable what mother natur can do.

From Mazatlan we took Mex 15 south and stood overnight in San Blas. With nearly 10.000 people this fishing town remained a sleeping hidden place for surfers and bird watchers.

And it is famous for bugs - especially sand flies which bothered us a lot.

Next day we left for „Laguna Santa Maria del Oro“ near Tepic. Alone the drive is dramatic. This crater lake is at an altitude of 730 m and is more than 100 m deep. When you reach the town Santa Maria del Oro you are at 1.100 m and than you have to descend 400 m into the crater using many switchbacks.  This crater lake has an diameter of 2 km.

Directly at the lake is the idylic campground „Koala Bungalows & Camping Park“. We hiked around the lake - but unfortunately not much of the lake can be seen. The lake shore is covered with privat houses. But some very nice restaurants are also at the lake front.

From Santa Maria del Oro we took MEX 15 Libre. It leads along a volcanic area and at the „Vulcon el Caboruco“ the road passes right through the lava field.

We made a dutour to Tequila. Here the world famous Tequila brandy is produced. And the whole valley is covered with the blue agave plant.

Tequila itself is extremly touristy and to 100% focused on Tequila brandy only.

In Guadalajara we stood at the „San Jose del Tajo Trailer Park“ south of town. We visited the centro with a local bus. The area of Guadalajara has 4,3 mil. people and is extremly busy. We visited the very beautiful Cathedral and the historic center. But we  didn´t like the city too much - too big for us.

The main reason to come here was the necessary oil change at our vehicle and here are 2 Volvo dealers.

And to collect a spare part which was sent from Germany to the Festo office in Guadalajara. And Gerardo Marinez and Alvaro Garcia showed us this new building - in the inspiring Festo corporate design - and explained us some nice places to visit in Mexico.

Thanks Gerardo and Alvaro for your hospitality!!

Von Guadalajara 60 km southwards we reached Lake Chapala - the largest natural lake in Mexiko (85 x 27 km). Lush vegetation, a perfect mild climate and a picturesque landscape has motivated many thousand gringos to settle here - either during winter or permanent.

When we arrived and looked for the campground a couple in an old VW - beetle stopped us and offered their yard to stay overnight. We accepted this generous gesture and were very happy because the local campground is closed in the meantime.

Doris and Tony from Texas  are also very enthusiastic travellers. And they have seen the whole world in a VW camping bus dispite the fact that Tony needs a wheelchair. We have great respect for the power and strength of mind of Tony and Doris!! They have seen so much in Asia / Australia / Europe / part of Africa and America and gave us a lot of excellent hints. And they inspired us that it is the right thing what we do.

Ajijic, an old Pre-Columbian fisher village, is worthwhile visiting. It has a beautiful Malecon, very old churches, galeries, small and nice shops and excellent restaurants. Small copple streets and colorful houses. We rode our bicycle to downtown and were surprised to find a bicycle trail - what a luxury in Mexico.

Doris and Tony, once more thousand thanks for your fantastic hospitallity and the many hints you gave us. And the nice stories about your adventures.

The only attraction here is the thermal bath - and this is worth visiting. There are many many pools and for the campers one pool is open until late evening. Which allows to sit under the sky of stars in a 32 - 35°C warm water. Weekends many visitors from Guadalajara are here so it is better to come during the week.

Here we met Lutz and Joan from Canada. Lutz born in Germany is extensively travelling the world since the 70th and there are very countries which he has not seen. He had a lot to tell.

In the „Sierra Tapalpa“ at an altitude of 2.300 m is this old mining town. The houses remember a bit to the Himalayan region: red tile roofs, white walls and a lot of wooden balconies, cobble stone streets and cuddling along the hills. It is definitely worth a visit.

And another highlight is the local food: e.g. „Borrego al Pastor“ at the restaurant with the same name (roasted lamb in a special salsa is just delicious!!!). 

And other specialities are: „rompope“ = egg liqueur or „ponche“ = wine from pomegranate. Both very very good.

In a cafe we met Steve Stanton - a local from Mexico City who settled in Tapalpa and who works for the local tourist industry. And knows a lot about history of Mexico and the region Tapalpa.

As per Steves recommendation we hiked from Tapalpa to the village of Atacco (about 7 km round trip). In Atacco are two churches from the Franciscan monks dated 1533. And an old „Hospital de Indios Regional“ dating also back into the 16th century built to cure the Indians from the deseases brought in by the whites.

In the meantime a garden with medicinal plants is established (at the place were the Franciscan hat such a garden) and products for natural healing is being sold.

This village has also a cristal clear spring with a pond for swimming - but also used as a washing place for the clothes.

In the evening - back in Tapalpa - we had dinner at the cute restaurant „Los Girasoles“. One speciality is pepper filled with cheese, bananas and swiss chard and a sauce from green tomatos - just delicious. And in the bordering shop a local and very tasty cheese is being sold.

Together with Steve we visited  the „CITAC“ Center. This is a non profit organisation to help and educate children which are physically or mentally handicaped or financialy very very poor. They receive here an education which allows them to stand later on on their own feet.

And parallel this organisation sells products which they produce and the money flows straight back to the person who produced it. This organisation lives entirely on donations. We were very impressed about the quality of the buildings and the standard of work. In the meantime even a theater buidling is being erected. And we met 2 volunteers from Belgian who work here for 4-5 months.

The homepage of CITAC: www.citac.org.com 

Many thanks to Steve Stanton who made it possible for us to visit this organization.

Parking place "Los Alcatraces":

Ignacio T. Lopez No.6 near the center of Tapalpa (everything can be reached by feet).

The place will not win a price for beauty but is very safe and very quite.

Also big rigs can park here.

GPS-Coordinates: N19.94331°   W103.75865

Price: 30.-P for 24 hours.

18 km south of Tapalpa is the interesting waterfall „El Salto del Nogal“ - not easy to find and mainly dirt roads. There are two waterfalls - one with 20 m and  the other one with 105 m height. The drive via Atacco, Rosa de Castilla, cofradia and than La Barranca is really very beautiful. Highland meadows - all above 2.000 m and many animals. The settlements are so small and no indication where you are. So we needed quite some luck to find the place. Then a hike about 300 m down into a valley with many switch backs. But the waterfall is just great and worth the effort. And especially during rainy season it must be just gorgeous.

North of Colima - capital city of the State with the same name - are the two volcanoes: the quite „Volcano Nevado de Colima“ with 4.240 m and „Volcano De Fuego“ with 3.820 m. This is Mexicos most active vulcano.  Approx. every 70  year a major eruption - luckely the last one was in 2005 when it erupted with an ash columne of 4.800 m. Otherwise it smokes contineously.

We made a nice hike - but it is not allowed to climb it - which anyhow we didn´t feel capable of. Around the vulcano is tropical forest and a bird paradies.

On the way to the coast of Michoacan we stopped at Colama. It is said to be the most picturesque town in the state of Colima. And we find it really very nice. And especially the small but interesting museum „Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo“ of the University of Guadalajara located in the former „Hacienda Nogueras“. It shows paintings of this artist and additionally very interesting ceramic potteries of pre-columbian times. The Indian people of this region were totally independend of the Aztecs and had their own culture. It is said that they had connections to China in those times. The ceramics are very fine and wonderful. Famous are the pieces of the „naked dogs“.

From Colima we took Mex 110 south to the coast. A well paved 4 lane highway. In Tecoman we turned left and via Mex 200 always along the coast. The famous MEX 200 goes all the way south to the border of Guatamala.

Next day we continued to Maruata Beach. This fishing village is a little bigger and has even a hotel and many restaurants. Directly at the beach we asked at a palapa for staying overnight. And for 50.-Ps they allowed us. Here we met also Steve from San Diego. He knows the world since he was responsible for the safety of various american embassies around the world. And we received valuable informations about Mexico.

Until Zihuatanejo the coastal Mex200 is extremly hilly, many curves and very narrow.

And here we had to add a third dimension (like flying). Because of the many trees and the armthick low hanging branches. One eye had to always look upwards. The road - 200 m heigh on the cliffs with sometimes fantastic views - has no side protections. Rita just „loves“ this.

This fishing village has nicely developed to an excellent tourist city. It is known for its friendly people and its easy lifestyle - a tropical paradies. It has beautiful beaches under many palm trees and we feel it has much more to offer and much more charme than its sister town Ixtapan (a pure hotel city).

Zihuantanejo has many (smaller) luxery hotels and fantastic restaurants. But still was able to cultivate a sort of hippie flair. Hundred of years ago it was a pirate hideaway.

It is not easy to decide on a restaurant because there are so many. We have choosen the „Villa Guadalupe“ at one of the most prestigous location with a view which is breath taking. And everything was excellent - exept the food. Unfortunately - today we will see again a more simple restaurant where the locals go for.

Years ago it was a secret place for hippies and the surfer community. Today it has some backpackers and also 4 star hotels. In other words it is neither this nor that. And we were quite disappointed. And regarding the pollution of the water we were quite shocked. Couldn´t understand how someone is swiming here.

Continuation of our travel report under:

„Chiapas_Campeche_Yucatan“