Alaska (from 29. 7. 2010 to 13. 8. 2010):
Our tour through Alaska
Taylor HWY:
Few kilometers behind the border you find an odd cafe with a gas station. The owner collects visiting cards and pins them to the walls. He promises to write Christmas cards to all visitors - lets see. He reminded us on „Sam Hawkins“. It is worth a stop.
=> Chicken:
Here we stood overnight. This was dring the gold rush home for 700 prospectors - today only 37 people live (mainly from tourists and still few gold searchers).
You pay few dollars (between 17 and 75) and you can try your luck.
The Taylor HWY leads through wild mountanous areas to Tok. Because of the heavy rain the road was washed away and it took 10 days to re-open. This day it was just opened.
During the drive we saw many gold prospectors in and at the water (even wearing „divers suits“).
Alaska HWY:
=> Drive to Delta Junction:
In Tok we joined the Alaska Hwy again. From here to Delta Junction we found it in an excellent condition. It leads along the „Alaskan Range“ and the view is very beautiful.
Delta Junction:
The town „Delta Junction“ (called after the river Delta) is living on farming, the largest military base of USA, and the „Alaska oil pipeline“.
By chance we came at hte right time. To participate for the local „Delta Junction Fair“. A mix of exhibition and beer fest. A lot of live music, a lot of food, even dances from Hawai and the
caribean and one of the biggest „mud races“ in Alaska. We enjoyed it a lot.
Richardson HWY:
From Delta Jct. We took the Richardson HWY south to Paxson and than right to Denali on the Denali HWY.
Denali HWY:
We planned to see the Denali National Park. The HWY is just awesome. We stood overnight at 1.000m hight at a „wild and free“ campground with a fantastic view. We crossed tundra area and saw
caribu´s. Unfortunately no moose. The view on the „Alaskan Range“ with glaciers is phenomenal. Only the road is a desaster.
When we arrived at the Denali park Center we were shocked to see the hundreds of RV´s and cars. The Center was just crowded and the weather was bad.
So we decided to drive southwards towards Talkeetna
Parks HWY (main connection between Fairbanks and Anchorage):
This road is excellent.
We stood overnight in the „Denali State Park“ (Byers lake) - recommendable.
=> Talkeetna:
We liked this quite place so much that we stood 3 nights.
There are tourists but not overcrowded and still charming
=> Flight to the Mount McKinley (Denali):
We decided spontanously to take a flight to the mount McKinley (Denali). With a 8-seeter Chessna (and oxigen masks) we climbed up on top of this 6.195 m giant. We saw the surrounding peaks from the view of the McKinley climbers and we were impressed and speechless. The way back the pilot flew along the glaciers - and to see the different colours of this „ice-streams“ is unforgettable.
=> mountain view and bald eagle:
Next morning we had after weeks the first time bright sunshine - no clouds.
We headed towards the river to see the McKinley. And there it was - approx. 5.500 m vertical hight in front of us - just gigantic.
During our stroll along the river we could watch a junge bald eagle catching a fish
=> From Talkeetna via Anchorage to Hope:
This is a quite boring route with many construction sites and a lot of traffic. The largest city of Alaska, Anchorage (280.000) we only used for shopping stop over - than we left quickly
Sterling and Seward HWY:
This route reminded us on Norway. The route leads along the „Turnagain Bay“ and had heavy traffic - Anchorage not too far. High mountains and glaciers which touch the lakes.
At the end of the bay a small - but good - road leads to Hope
=> Hope:
This is a very tiny village with well hidden houses, fantastic englisch meadows. A sympathic atmosphäre with nice people.
We stood overnight near a cafe / bar and by chance this evening was live music. Performed by locals and many guests joined in. All musicians were enthusiastic and we had a lot of fun - and good beer. This settlement was established as a gold mining community
Sterling HWY:
=> Hope to Homer:
This route passes by many „Russian Settlements“ (Kasilof / Ninilchik / Soldotna) with orthodox churches. These „Russians“ were settlers from Russia from the time Alaska belonged to Russia. In 1867 USA bought this huge land (1/3 of the lower 48 land mass) for „an apple and egg“ = 7,2 mil. US$. A big deal - for the USA.
Driving the shoreline you can see (at clear weather) the Lake Clark Natural Park with it´s activ volcanos.
=> Homer:
Is a tiny town mainly visited by anglers and lays at the Kachemak Bay. It is beautiful (if the weather ist nice). We had a fantastic place directly at the beach.
Homer Spit - a 7,5 km long narrow penninsula with reaturants, shops, fishery harbour and tour offices. We can imagine that this is a cute place if the sun shines. But we had solid rain so we rushed away.
=> Homer to Seward:
From Homer we had to drive back to Soldotna ( a good shopping place). We stood overnight at the Russian River and we started a hiking tour to see fishing grizzly´s.
Somehow we took the wrong trial (along the river) - which turned out to be the fishermen´s trail. It was more in the river than beside. After hard hours we turned back - without seeing a single bear - but hundreds of fishermen. So no fish left for the grizzly.
Seward HWY:
The Seward Hwy is a scenic road and has nice views (in case of no rain). 4 miles before Seward a trial leads to the Exit Glacier. A short stroll to the end of the glacier is possible - recommendable. The rangers have marked the years along the trial and one can see how fast the glacier retracts.
=> Seward: 8. to 11. 8. 2010:
An idyllic place on the Kenai penninsula at the end of the Resurrection Bay. Seward is surrounded by the 2.347 square kilometer big „Kenai Fjord NP“. Here one can participate on a breath taking boot trip through the Kenai Fjord to the Harding Icefields (we went to the Holgate Glacier).
We entered the boat on a rainy day with mixed feelings: we never regretted it. We saw calving galciers, Gray Whales, Orca or Killer Whales, Stellar Sea Lions, Sea Otters; Harbour Seals, Horned Puffins, Cormorants, Common Murre and Bald Eagles.
This tour was fantastic - besides rain and a queasy feeling.
=> Seward to Whittier:
A drive through gorges which are full of water falls. Passing by glaciers and snow covered mountains. Unfortunately again rain. To drive to Whittier one have to take a tunnel with only one lane. So you have to wait some time to get the green signal to drive. The lane is only few centimeters broader than our RV and the train trial is shared with the car trial. When the train runs the tunnel is closed for the cars. This ride offers quite a funny feeling.
=> Whittier to Valdez with the ferry (6 hours):
We were lucky to get a place without reservation (the same day). The route leads through the „Prince William Sound“.
Juhuuu!! The rain has stopped and we had the most spectacular sail.
Icefields, Icebergs, blue water, uncountable islands, most beatiful rainbow has accompanied us.
Here in the „Prince William Sound“ the dreadfull „Exxon Valdez“ disaster happened in 1989. The tanker hit a rock and 53 mio. gallons of crude oil spilled into this fantastic bay. The oil has polluted an area of 100 sqare miles. And even today the enviroment and the fishery is suffering.
Valdez:
The Alaskan pipeline ends here and many and big oil tanks show from fare the main activity. A huge dock for oil tankers can be seen.
But this small town is a paradies for anglers (halibutt and salmon). And many commercial fishing boats are lying in the harbour. The town on the Prince William Sound is surrounded by high mountains and is called „Switzerland of Alaska. And in fact it is beautiful.
Richardson HWY:
Leads from Valdez to Tok (here we stood overnight at a gas station). The route is very nice - always along high mountains. Shortly before Tok we saw a moose cow with a calf.
In Tok we took the Alaska HWY to the border of Canada / Yukon.
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