Crossing the border to USA on 4. 9. 2010 at Osoyoos - CA / Oroville - US
Tour durch Washington und Oregon
Tours in detail:
Washington:
Drive from Oronville to Lake Chelan:
We took the IS 97 (which leads to the Mexican border). The same landscape as in the Okanagan valley in CA (extremly dry but wherever the land is watered you find plenty of fruits). Chelan lies at the end of lake Chelan. A 89 km long and 457 m deep lake (3. deepest of USA). Fed by 27 glaciers and 59 rivers.
Chelan is very popular because it offers 300 sunny days a year.
We drive into the mountains to hike - and here are many gravel roads which are open to public. We took a beautiful small steep road - but we didn´t find our destination („Stormy Mountain“) - no signs and no map. But we did our hike and we stood overnight high in the mountains at the Grouse Mountain Campground (2 vehicles and 1 tent). It was cold but clear sky and cristal clear air.
Drive to Leavenworth:
The drive from Chelan Lake we took HWY97A and than along the Columbia River is just wonderful. The mountains dry and brown and in contrast the valley dark green and lush with fruit orchards and vineyards. In Wenatchee (the apple capital) we took HWY 2 towards west through the beautiful Wenatchee Valley. And than comes Leavenworth.
=> Leavenworth:
We read from this small town being built in Bavarian style. We have been very skeptical but we wanted to see it. Our first round estonished us very positively. They really built a center in alpine style and very very close to what we are used in Europe. A music band played „Tiroler and Bavarian“ pieces. Everything is clean and nice.
Dinner we had at the „King Ludwig Restaurant“ - „Schweinshaxe; Hungarian Gulasch and Bavarian Weißbier“. And we like it very much - tasted like at home!!
Why such an village here in Washington State?
Leavenworth was a center for the railway (many employees) and had a large logging company (also a large employer). In the 60th the railway moved to Wenatchee and because of this the logging company followed. Most of the workplaces were lost. The town started it´s down turn.
But the Americans don´t give up so easily. We must add that Leavenworth is beautifully located in the Wenatchee valley and surrounded by high mountains.
Some inhabitants developed they idea to start tourismus business. And than the idea developed to built a Bavarian town.
And today the town is booming and is full of guests. We can only congratulate to this enterpreneur ship - excellently done!!
Von Leavenworth to the border of Oregon (Maryhill):
Route: HWY 97 via Dryden, Ellensburg, Yakima, Toppenish to Maryhill.
Scenic: most beautiful
Overnight stay: in Wishram at the station (not recommendable - too load).
Oregon (9. 9. 2010):
The Journey Through The Times Byway:
=> From Biggs to Fossil:
Route: „ The Journey Through Time Scenic Byway“ leads from Biggs to Bakers City.
We drove the first day up to Fossil and visited Shaniko, „The John Day Fossil Bed National Monument“ near Clarno and Fossil.
Shaniko (today 23 people) was a former wool world capital and had in 1910 5 - 6.000 people and a turnover with wool of 3 - 5 mio. US$. Toay the community tries to establish a tourist business as a ghost town - it´s´worth visiting.
„The John Day Fossil Bed National Monument“: very nice for a small stroll in a beautiful landscape.
Fossil: Unfortunately the museum was already closed.
Landscape: very very beautiful
Overnight stay: „Shelton Wayside Park“ approx. 10 - 12 miles out of Fossil towards Spray - nice place.
=> From Fossil to Baker City:
The fantastastic road continues via Service Creek. Here we turned southwards (HWY 207) because we wanted to see the „Painted Hills“ (near Mitchell). These hills are unique. A volcanic material in the colours red, white, yellow, black - and this mixed better than any artist could have done it. The material is soft and porous and one cannot believe that rain does´nt wash it away. The secret: as soon the material gets wet it becomes hard and smooth. This hills are 30 million years old!!
From here we headed towards the John Day River through phenominal gorges. The town John Day is a local center and nice to visit. In Austin Jct. we took HWY 7 to Baker City - along the Blue Mountains and the beautiful Powder River.
=> Baker City:
Victorian elegance and a historic western style town you will find. The famous „Oregon Trail“ was passing by and led the settlers to the west coast. Around 1860 discovery of gold has speed up the development of Baker City and more than 100 renovated houses prove this rich time. The most elegant hotel between Salt Lake City and Seattle - The Geiser Grand Hotel - was (is still) here. Even President Roosevelt resided here.
The Oregon Trail Interpretive Center - very impressive - shows the hardship of these first settlers in an impressive way. From Missouri in 6 months with covered wagons pulled by oxes through deserts, over mountains, through wild rivers a 2.000 mile long journey.
For our generation just unbelievable and just only 150 years ago.
Hells Canyon Scenic Byway:
=> The route:
This Byway starts in Baker City direction east (HWY 86) via Halfway and short after Halfway the HWY 39 leads towards North.
Unfortunately this HWY was closed. Heavy rains in June / July resulted in landslides and quite a part of the road was washed away - until September still not repaired. We asked in Baker City and in Halfway in the „forest bureau“ about using the small HWY 66 as an alternate - too bad, too narrow for our vehicle, too many trees and tree branches, too long distance and now gas station.
We didn´t listen and used this gravel road. And it was in a perfect condition - of course small and really up (2.000 m) and down - and the gasoline consumptions - really high. But beautiful and recommendable.
When joining the HWY 39 we turned right and visited the beautiful look-outs: „Hells Canyon Overlook“; „McCraw Lookout“ and „Buck Point View Point“. We stood overnight at the parking place of the „Hells Canyon Overlook“.
The Hells Canyon is the deepest gorge in North America. The Snake River (today at many places with a dam) has cut this 2.200 m deep canyon. Unfortunately there is no point in Oregon where one can see completely to the ground. But still the landscpae is just marvelous.
=> Joseph:
The Hells Canyon Byway (39) continues through high mountains until Joseph. A beautiful ride.
Joseph is pretty and the nice „Wallowa Lake“ just behind. This lake was formed by the glacier time. Two high side moraine and one end moraine are very visible. Directly west of Joesph border the high and wild Wallowa mountains (over 3.000m high). We took the tramway to the Mount Howard (2.500m) an hiked all the trails on top with stunning views across the country.
We stood overnight at the State Campground directly at the end of the Wallowa Lake - very recomendable.
=> from Joseph to Pendleton:
The HWY 82 leads via Enterprise, Wollowa to Elgin - along the Wallowa River. The section to Wallowa is very fertile farmland - everything is artificially irrigated. And on the left side the impressive Wallowa mountains.
From Wallowa onwards the road climbs steep a long a deep gorge. In Elgin we took HWY 204 and later the small HWY 30 which leads into a gravel road (32). This small road through the „Umatilla National Forest“ in the „Blue Mountains“ is really in a bad condition. It is steep and very stoney - but interesting landscape.
In Gibbon starts the grainary area of Oregon (1% of USA grain is grown here).
Pendleton:
To drive via Pendleton was just a spontaneous decision. We didn´t want to stop here but than we saw the many many people. And we were lucky: the most important „Western festival“ to place this week. To find a place to park and to stay is like winning the first price in the lottery. And we found a plce only few minutes walking from the center of the festival.
Pendleton lays on the famous „Oregon Trail“ and was one time the fourth largest city in USA.. Today Pendleton has 16.000 inhabitants and during this festival 50.000 visitors. It is one of the biggest Rodeo of the US.
But we stood especially to here nice Music, to see dances, to watch the parade and especially „The happy Canyon & Indian Pageant“. A historical piece about the white settlers and the Indians - also with some critical voices. And the native people paticipated.
We have booked the „Pendleton Underground Tour“. This shows the development of the City in the boom years (1900 and later). Especially the time of the prohibition and the ways around it (underground) and glimses in casinos, saloons, opium dens, bordellos and the Chinese living quarters - very interesting.
Columbia River Gorge Scenic Byway:
This route along the Columbia River (one can drive on either side) is for shure beautiful if the weather is fine - unfortunately we had rain. And than you can´t see to much. We stopped at the „Horsetail“ and „Multnomah“ waterfall and both are impressive even if it rains.
Portland (19. to 22. 9. 2010):
An american metropolitan city which has many european facettes. A sympathic downtown with cosy squares, little parks and especially great biking trails through the whole town. No car is needed.
It is also the town with a exciting and unconventional art and cultur scene.
Many galleries and craftshops in many streets. And an eating place par exellence.
But what we didn´t know is Portland today the beer brewing champion in the world. Alone 32 mirco breweries in the city - and really good quality beers!!! - we tried many of them.
The Japanese Garden and the world famous rose garden are a further highlight.
We can only recomend this city
Mount Hood (23. - 25. 9. 2010):
The highest peak in Oregon (and the most fotographed in the world) is 11.237 feet = 3.425 m high. About 10.000 times per year he is climbed - after Mt. Fuji in Japan. It is the fourth highest mountain of the Cascade Range and is 90 km East of Portland. About 200 years ago it errupted the last time and has set the entire region under ash.
We stood 3 nights at the parking lot of the famous Timberline Lodge at 1.800 m height and Mt. Hood only few kilometers away looks like touching distance. We made two very beautiful hikes at bright sunshine and saw the other vulcanic mountains („Mt. Jefferson“ 65 km away and „Mt. North Sisters“ 150 km away) - just fantastic.
Kah-Nee-Ta (Hot Spring Ressort & Casino) near Warm Springs:
Between Mt. Hood and Bend on the HWY 26 is some 11 miles East of Warm Springs this by the Indians managed resort. It t consists of a thermal bath, a campground, a hotel, agolf course and a casino.
Everything in good conditions and the thermal bath has large pools and fantastic water. The campground is the best what we experienced so far in US. We liked the place very much and we are happy to hear that this investement has good success.
The drive from Mt. Hood to Warm Springs leads first throung dense forest and suddenly changes to a dry semi desert. On the right site the fantastic volcanos (Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Washington and the 3 Sisters) can be seen.
Bend:
=> Repair of our „National Luna“ fridge box in Bend:
=> Repair of our „National Luna“ fridge box in Bend:
Since the temperature controller didn´t function properly we looked for the importer of this procut in the USA. We found the company „Equipt Expedition Outfitters“ who is the general importer.
Here the adress:
Equipt Expedition Outfitters
Paul May
Salt Lake City, Utah
homepage: http://www.equipt1.com/
email: Paul@Equipt1.com
Tel: 866-703-1026
Paul May of Equipt was extrem helpful in locating the problem together with the manufactorer in South Africa and has sent us the parts immediately to the following adrtess in Oregon:
Columbia Overland
Thule Betsinger
homepage: www.ColumbiaOverland.com
Tel: 541.728.0625
email: thule@columbiaoverland.com
Fa. Columbia Overland has helped us to fit the parts (at no costs!!!) And since than the fridge works again nicely. We can really recommend this two companies. Excellent knowledge and service!!!
=> The town of Bend and new friends:
Bend is ar e sympathic town. Unfortunately we couldn´t find a place to park overnight in the center. We had to move to a park & ride place outside.
Next day we drive to Mt. Bachelor and to the wonderful Elk Lake.
Here we met Phyl and Terry who invited us to their home in Bend. We spent 3 wonderful days together - thousand thanks. To meet such beautiful people are the highlights of travelling - thanks Phyl and Terry!!!
=> Elk Lake at the Mount Bachelor:
The campground was officially already closed but we still found a fantastic place at the shore. Here we met Phyl and Terry and we had the same wave length. We had two beautiful eventings at the fire under a sky full of stars. And we hiked together.
Also Monika and Manfred - a Frankonian (brasilian) couple joined us.
=> Crater Lake National Park:
Phyl and Terry invited us spontanously to a drive to the Crater Lake Nationalpark (2 hours away from Bend). We had bright sunshine and fantastic blue sky / lake.
This lake is the deepest of USA (592 m) and was formed 7.700 years ago when Mt. Mazama erupted. The lake is 1.880 m high and the surrounding Crater mountians are 2.500 m hight. One of the most wonderful place we ever saw. Thanks Phyl and Terry for this wonderful tour!!!
Steen Mountains:
From Bend we took HWY 20 direction East passing „Rodman Rim“, „Hampton Buttes“, „Glass Buttes“ to Burns. Here we stood 2 nights to do the washings. From here we took HWY 205 / 202 southwards passing „Malheur Nat. Wildlife Refuge“ to „Frenchglen".
Here left on the „Steen Mountains Loop Road“ direction East and from 1.275 m upwards to 2.965 m to the „East Rim Overlook“ and temperatur fall to 0°C. Here the rim falls 1.700 m more or less vertical to the „Pueblo Valley“ and „Avord Dessert“. Magnificent and rugged this archaic and awe-inspiring landscape keeps your mouth open. You hardly can turn you away.
From here we turned back and stood overnight at the fish lake directly at the shore and had a peaceful quiet night.
Next day we drove around the Steen Mountains into the „Alvord Desert“ and to the „Alvord Hotsprings“. Unfortunately they were in bad shape and we couldn´t use it. We drove back the 202 towards South passed the border to Nevada and turned towards West (back to Oregon) through „Guano Valley“, „Warner Valley“ and „Warner Mountains“. We saw wild Mustangs but were too slow to fotograf them. In Lakeview we stood overnight (not much to see).
On 8.10. We continued westwards taking HWY 140 to „Klamath Falls“ (here we got our tires balanced at „LES SCHWAB TIRES" - they did a perfect job!!) and we drive the legendary route 66 to Medford.
We stood overnight at the „Hyatt Reservoir Lake“.
Than to Ashland and via the IS 5 to Phoenix and here via the very narrow 238 and in Provolt the 46 / 4611 to Case Jct. And than HWY 199 to Cresent City / CA.
The whole tour from East to West Oregon is just beautiful.
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