New Mexico and Arizona - May 2. to ...
=> Las Cruces:
Directly beside El Paso but in New Mexico. We restet here 2 days to relax from the tiring drive through northern Mexico. Filled up water, bought croceries and used our bicycle. Especially „Old Mesilla which was built by the Mexicans after the war with USA is worth visiting (many Adobe buildings) and good mexican kitchen.
=> Catwalk National Scenic Trail:
Is on the border to Arizona around 8 km north of Glenwood.
It is a fantastic hiking trail through a narrow and deep canyon of the Whitewater River. The excellent trail was built as a water way in the beginning of the 19. Century to supply energy and water to a mill. Than in 1935 by the „Civilian Conservation Corps“ it was developped as a hiking trail and it es easy to walk - provided their is no rain and flood. Otherwise the gorge would extremely dangerous.
=> Drive from Catwalk / NM to Globe / AZ:
We didn´t take the direct way via Safford but drove first northwards (Hwy 180) via Luna, Alpine, to Eagar. Here the plan was to see some historical Indian ruins: „Casa Malpais“ / ruins of the Mogollon Indians from the 13.th century. But the road was closed and we were not able to find it. Than the „Little Bear Archaeological Site“ west of Eagar. We asked at various points but again not possble to find the ruins. They are supposed to be from the 5.th century. Absolutely no signs to guide you.
Disappointed we continued Hwy 260 and reached after some miles the big „Apache Indian reservation“. In McMary we took the wonderful „Scenic Byway“ (Hyw 73) and in Whiteriver - the center of this Apache region - we tried to find the cultural center. Again very difficult by this time we succeeded. It is worth seeing.
We tried to find a way to stay for some days here and to learn more about the plants and how to use them, more about the nature etc. First we got some ideas how we could do this but as soon as it became serious nobody wanted to make a decision.
Near Whiteriver is one more old ruin - the „Kinishba ruins“ from the 13.th century built by the Mogollon. We found it this time but the cultural piece is in a desolate condition. Not vorth visiting.
We had the feeling that neither the „Indians“ nor the „White People“ are interested to show the indigenous cultur - perhaps out of different reasons.
=> Salt River Canyon:
We continued via Carrizo and than Hyw 60 southwards. Again a scenic byway. The road passes through the spectacular „Salt River Canyon“. We were stunned about the beauty and the grandiosity. We had to climb 700 m down to the riverbed and than again 700 m up. Only possible with good brakes. The view dramatic and nobody on Europe and little in US have even heard about Canyon.
=> Tonto National Monument:
After a noisy night at the Walmart parking lot we continued towards Globe. A wonderful route. The first highlight on the way is the „Tonto NM“.
In the 13. Century AD a pueblo built into a rock wall high above the valley. The Salado Indians lived here for about 200 years. This site is a must see!!
=> Apache Trail Scenic Byway, (Highway 88):
We continued along the Roosevelt lake and on the Roosevelt Dam turned southwards the famous „Apache Trial“ - a difficult to drive dirt road. We stood overnight at the beautiful Apache Lake.
The Salt River has formed this overwhelming canyon and in 1902 this trail was built by the Apache as a precondition to build the Roosevelt Dam. The trial is at some sections only one line with difficult areas. But the view is just fantastic.
As per Teddy Roosevelt: „one of the most scenic and beautiful roads of the world“. Most propably true even today.
=> Prescott:
This small town lies 1.500m high and is climately very pleasant. It has an old historic center from the mining time and is very scenic and charming.
A small story to the famous „Whisky Row“: this street had in former times only bars. And around 1900 a devastating fire happened here. Most of the wooden houses burnt down. But the guests of the saloons saved the bars including the whiskeys by carrying them out to save places across the road. And htey watched the fire while drinking „scotch“. You fiind this wooden bars today in the newly built saloons.
We met here in Prescott the owner of „Harvest Hosts“: Kim and Don Greene.
Both have founded this very interesting organisation for travellers where you can become a member for little money and visit farms and vineyards and stay overnight free of charge.
Here the internet adress: www.harvesthosts.com
And they are also travellers and have a nice homepage: www.questconnect.org
Thank you Don and Kim for this nice evening and for your fantastic hints.
=> Montezuma Castle National Monument:
We drove to Sedona via „Montezuma Castle“.
This monument is in the „Verde Valley“ where already 600 AD the Hohokam Indians lived. The Sinagua Indians built this monument in 1.100 AD. It is 5 floor building high in the rocks cliffs. It had 20 rooms for 50 people. And nearby was even a bigger biulding for 100 people (but destroyed). The name Sinagua = „sin agua“ = „without water“ was given by the Spaniards because they believed this people could live without water. Also the buildings name „Montezuma Castle“ was given by the Spaniards because they thought only the Aztecs would have be able to built such a house.
=> via Sedona to Flagstaff:
From Sedona we took the „Scenic Byway“ to the „Schnebly outlook“. Few miles after Sedona a real bad dirt road with a lot of rocks and holes made the life of our „baby“ miserable. The trail is only used by comercial outfitter using Jeeps to drive guests to the outlook. But the landscape and scenery is fantastic. When we drove to the parking lot of Schnebly we heard the noise - we lost air at the rear tire. A big iron piece stuck out of the rubber. No chance to get help so far away - even the mobile phone was not working - means we had to change this huge tires ourselves. After few hours we made it and where proud of us!! But we don´t need this job again. We stood overnight at this beautiful spot.
=> Flagstaff:
Nest morning we took I-17 to Flagstaff.
This sympathic town is worth a visit - especially the old town. We spent few hours, visited nice cafes, a very interesting tourist office, good shops and stood overnight at the parking lot of the town office. No „offical“ bothered us - thanks.
=> Grand Canyon:
We took Hwy 180 directly to the South Rim (North Rim still was closed). Short before the visitor center the IMAX cinema shows the famous 3D movie about the Grand Canyon. This is a must see - very informativ and spectacular.
We were both the first time here and when we see the Grand Canyon we were overwhelmed. This is definitely one of the most spectacular natural wonder of the world.
The 350 km long, 29 km wide and 1.500 m deep canyon is unbelievable. In 6 mil. years the mighty Colorado River has carved this monument. The froms and changing colours of the rocks, the shadows are just breath taking. You can sit and watch forever.
=> Hike into the Canyon:
The hike along the rim is easy and the view is fantastic. But we also hiked down into the canyon. Not to the Colorado but half (700 m). It took us 5 hours roundtrip and the way up makes you breathless. But we were happy afterwards and the whole next day we .... rested!!
=> visit „from Switzerland“:
Next day we waited for a visit from Swiss friends Esther and Erich. They are also on a world tour. Last we saw them in Las Vegas. We really were most happy that after 5 months we could meet again and they made a big detour to see us. We had a lot to talk. Many thanks Esther and Erich for the good wine, the excellent lamb and the „hotpan“!!
We enjoyed every minute with both of you.
=> From Grand Canyon via Lake Powell to the Bryce Canyon NP:
We took the picturesque Hyw 64 and Hwy 89 to Page / Lake Powell. We stood overnight at the „Wahweap Campground (NP) directly at Lake Powell.
Utah:
=> Cottonwood Canyon Road:
Shortly after Page we crossed the border to Utah.
Shortly after the Toruist Info (on the Hwy 89) to the Bryce Canyon we decided to take the gravel road via the Cottonwood Canyon - against the recommendation of the vistitor center. This is a wonderful route (and easy to drive) with nice hiking trails through the narrow and tall Cottenwood Canyon and with colourful rock formations along the road.
=> Bryce Canyon NP - May 15. to 17. 2011:
This is definitely also one of the highlights in US. It is not a canyon but more an amphitheater (a half round rim) with thousands of rock pillars, sculptures, etc. A fairyland made of colourful rocks which change colours depending on the position of the sun.
For the Paiute Indians - who lived here - this area was a sacred place which they only entered for religious ceremonies. They believed that Coyote has transformed former people - who were bad - into these rocks. And in fact you can imagine many human figures in this rock formations (hoodoos).
How did the Bryce Canyon develop? 60 mil. years ago a huge lake covered the area. Tectonical movements drained the water and frost, ice and water has carved out this beautiful rock formations and Hoodoos - and is still doing.
Drive to San Francisco - May 18. - 20. 2011:
Because of time problems we didn´t vist the "Zion NP" this time. We drove via Hwy12, Hwy89 and Hwy20 to the I-15. When we crossed the pass we encountered a snow blizzard. Many trucks got stranded - with our 4x4 drive we had no problems but couldn´t pass easily the blocked highway.
Via I-15 towards Las Vegas we stood overnight at Lake Mead in a beautifull campground.
Next day we drove via Barstow to Bakersfield an stood overnight in Lost Hills on a loud trucker parking lot.
Than the next day to Oakland, here we made an appointment at the Volvo Dealer for Monday and spent the weekend in Pacifica. This beautiful coast inspires to hike and bicycle but the weather was windy and cold (and this end of May).
The TEC California Volvo dealer changed the oil and all the filters of our "baby" and adjusted the brakes. They did a wonderful job and we can only recommend them.
Than we drove to Pleasanton, to clean our "Baby" and made it fit for 5 weeks storage.
On May 31. we fly for 5 weeks to Germany and come back on July 15. 2011 to continue our tour via California / Oregon / Washington and than Montana, Colorado towards Mexico.
We are from May 31. until July 11. 2011 in Esslingen / Germany on "holiday"
Please continue reading our travel blog around July 15 under the heading: "CA / OR / WA / Jul 2011"
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