New Mexico - Oct. 25 to Nov. 3. 2011:

Drive to Taos Pueblo:

From Pagosa Springs we took direction south (Hwy 84) to Tierra Amarilla and here Hwy 64 east through the San Juan Mts. Again over a pass of more than 3.000 m. After we crossed the deep gorge of Rio Grande we suddenly saw some „funny looking buildings“. We stopped at the information center and discovered the „Earthship Buildings“. This buildings are unique - they are more or less energy independent. With solar power, wind power, rain water recovery and filtration system and sewage system. Additionally most of the building is below the surface which helps to keep it cool in summer and warm in winter. And a very clever sunlight guiding system keep the rooms bright with daylight.

A very interesting structure - see their homepage:   www.earthship.com

Taos Pueblos:

Taos Pueblos has been the most interesting pueblo we have seen so far. Besides others because it is still a living village. It is the oldest constantly inhabited communitiy in USA. The oldest buildings are more than 1.000 year old.

The cementery with its old clock tower was the place were 1619 the first church was built by Spanish Missionaries and Indian labour. And all Indians have been forced into catholic belief. 3/4 are still today belonging to this religion - of course mixed with old Indian traditions. Taos Pueblos was 1680 the center of a revolte against the Spaniards. Which led to the disappearance of the Spanish until 1700. Than the region was again oocupied.

The „San Geronimo Church“ of today was built in 1850 and belongs to the „UNESCO world heritage“.

Taos:

This town is more or less a art center. Galaries and small shops are located on Adobe houses. The center is a Spanish Place with trees around. This town invites to stroll around. To visit a cafe and to try the good restaurants. We enjoyed this unusual ambience.

Santa Fe:

The oldest town in North America was establshed (1610) by the Spaniards. This entirely in Adobe style built town attracts many visitors - also us. The town is nice to lood at but we were totally disappointed by the extrem touristic approach. Many many junk products and many Indian like products made in China - and much too expensive. We would not come again.

Albuquerque:

- Visit to a tire dealer:

In Albuquerque we had to see a tire specalist. After turning the wheels we again had this hunting problem when applying the brakes. We checked the front rims and one of them is having a problem - not perfectly round. After mounting this rim at the rear axle the hunting was more or less gone.

- Visiting friends:

But the main reason to come to Albuquerque was to see an old friend. Rudi knows Nishiena Gandhi from his time in India 30 years ago. Nishiena lives with her family in New Mexico and to meet again after 20 years was just wonderful!!!

- Visiting  "Old Town":

We could park our vehicle at Nishienas house and bike to the old town. Albuquerque has a lot of Adobe style houses in old town, nice cafes and restaurants, museums (especially the Snake Museum is worth visiting) and galeries. Albuquerque has a lot of bicycle trails and the one along the Rio Grande is fantastic.

Acoma Pueblo - The Sky City:

Acoma is between Albuquerque and Gallup on the I-40. The Sky City can only be visited with an Acoma guide - but the very good explanations are worth the money.

1.100 AD the Adobe village was built and is up to today populated. This pueblo village is built on a high mesa (370 feet). It was only  accessible via a very steep path - and easy to defend. As per Acoma tradition the houses belong to the women and are passed on to the youngest daughter.

1540 the Spaniards came the first time but couldn´t succeed to take over the village. Only 80 years later they succeeded and under their supervision the Indians built the beautiful church „San Esteban del Rey Mission und Convent“. This church is protected under the „Register of National Monuments“.

The Acomas are also known for their fine and beautifully painted ceramic.

 

El Morro National Momument:

Lies 40 miles south of I-40 (from Grants).

Also here the Acoma Indians have built a pueblo high up. 200 m vertical cliffs have protected this village. We hiked up via steep stairs and paths and we enjoyed a fantastic few over the region. Also the excavation of some pueblo houses can be seen.

A further attraction here are the inscriptions left from the Spaniards (400 years old) and the white Americans (200 years old).

The reason for the first settlement is a lake at the bottom of the cliffs. It is a natural cistern which collects rain and snow water. And it never dries out because it is surrounded by this vertical cliffs and gets very little sunshine.

Chaco Canyon National Historic Park:

- Drive:

From Grants via Milan we took Hwy 605 and 509 northwards. In Whitehorse left (Hwy 9) to the junction of Hwy 57. Up to here a small be well maintained asphalt road. But Hwy 57 is a dirt road and impassable when wet. But even when dry it is bad - the worst road we had since we started our journey. Not only  constant washboard but at each hump are rocks. And to climb over them means going in the first gear (and there are 50 humps).

- Chaco Canyon:

 Why is this National Historic Site not so much visited? Perhaps because it is so far from the other touristic attractions, or because of the bad roads?

It is a pitty because we felt it is the best place to see the amazing Pueblo Culture.

The Chaco culture has developped huge buildings (5 story and more) and many of them. Some Archeologists compare this with the pyramids. The Chaco Canyon culture lastet 300 years (850 AD to 1150 AD) and the buildings were erected over this time span. Which in other words means they must have had right in the beginning a master plan for the whole project and for the time span of 300 years. 

More than 200.000 timber logs have been collected and transportet from mountains 40 - 60 miles away - only carried by manpower and cut with stone tools. Also the masonary work has been done by stone tools (cutting rocks). The centers (like „Pueblo Bonito“) have unbelievable many Kivas - religious and social meeting rooms. Which leads to the conclusion that Chaco Canyon was a politcal center for a larger region. So many prehistoric roads were discovered which linked this center to many villages far away (40 miles and more). Perhaps Chaco canyon was the „Rome of the Pueblo Indians“.

 

Arizona - Nov. 4. - Nov. 13. 2011:

Monument Valley:

- Drive from Chaco Canyon to Monument Valley:

Dirt road to Hwy 550 and than asphalt to Bloomfield. Than Hwy 64 to Farmington where we stood overnight.

Than Hwy 64 - to the border of Arizona - and Hwy 160 to Kayenta and Hwy 163 north to Moument Valley. Short after Farmington the huge Navajo Reservation starts. We have been surprised how nice the little towns were kept - different to other Indian settlements.

 

- Monument Valley:

The view to this bold sandstone monoliths are unforgettable. This age-old giants, in the Navajo reservation, are the symbol of the American Wild West. It was the backdrop of many Western Movies - John Wayne sends his regards. 

When we arrived we encountered a sand storm and it started raining in the evening. So we decided to drive into the park next day. It was a cristal clear day and we drove ourselves the 17 miles long sand road. The view was phenominal clear. It is unbelievable what mother nature formed - no artist could ever do this. And then the change of light, colors and shadows with changing sunlight. Seeing the pictures you can´t believe this is real.

This was one of our highlights of the last 20 months of travelling through North America.

 

Antelope Canyon:

It is near Page in the Navajo Reservation. A very narrow und deep sandstone slot canyon. Inside you find a palette of colors in all shades from yellow, orange to bright and dark red transmitted by light filtering down from above and bouncing from wall to wall. Best time is mid June to mid September when sun is high enough and more light comes straight down. But even now in November the lighting spectacle was fantastic. Quite dangerous is this canyon during a flash flood. Up to a 20 m high water wall can than rush through the canyon and kill everything what is inside.

Only negativ point: too many visitors. In summer the crowd is pushing through and even now in November were too many people.

 

Tour to Desert Hot Springs in California:

- Seligman on the Route 66:

Since the weather was not good we decided to skip the famous „wave“.

We drove Hwy 89 southwards to Flagstaff and than I-10 west. In Seligman we took old Route 66.

Seligman entirely makes his living from tourists travelling the Route 66. All houses (the front part) are somehow re-modelled to look like in the older days. And many shops carrying this junk made in China. We didn´t like it. We stood overnight one block behind Rt.66 on the parking place of the Catholic Church. And entire Seligman has only run-down houses and gardens.

- Oatman on the Route 66:

Rt-66 continues West and all towns are shabby. Before reaching Oatman the road climbs through a mountain range. Narrow curves and wonderful views. 

Oatman itself was a gold mining town (long ago) and this ghost town has been revived as a tourist town. But here the same thing - shops with only junk and restaurants totally over priced. Not worth visiting.

- Lake Havasu City:

From Oatman the Rt-66 winds down into the Colorado valley. And since this valley is irrigated it is totally green. We were surprised to see so many cotton fields.

Lake Havasu City is built at an artificial lake and it is a famous retiry place and winter refuge.

Double so many inhabitants in winter than in summer. A fantastic climate and many things to do at the lake.

McCulloch - a Californian business man - founded and developped this city. And to boost eager demand he decided to buy the London bridge 1968 - which London decided to demolish. Stone by stone has been shipped to Arizona and rebuilt. And since there was no river he built it on dry land (sand) and digged a channel afterwards. This marketing coup was a full success and Lake Havasu City is today one of the most popular holiday destination of the West.

Desert Hot Springs:

Located in the Coachella Valley besides the famous Palm Springs. We have been here one year ago with Tina und Andreas - at the „Sam´s Family Hot Springs and RV Park“. We enjoyed one week long the hot pools. Besides this we cleaned and re-organized our vehicle and we had to clean and conserve the stainless steel rails.

We went on bicycle and hiking tours and visited the „Coachella Valley Preserve“ - the largest oasis in California. Wonderful and dense palm trees and a lake inmidst of the desert which even does not try out after a year without rain and many birds.

Lake Casitas in the Ojai Valley - near Carpinteria:

Since it rained contineously in LA while we arrived we continued to Malibu. We stood overnight at Malibu Point at a parking lot. Next day during shopping we were approached by a film company if we could participate with our vehicle for producing an advertising film for Toyota Prius. Unfortunately at this time we are leaving for Australia. And when we return it is too late.

 

We planned to stay few days in Carpenteria at the Pacific Coast. Unfortunately the coast was totally over-crowded because of „Thanksgiving“ and we were asked to pay 35.-$ for a parking place. We packed up and headed for the mountains - to the Ojai-valley 35 km away. It has a beautiful climate, nice orchards and vineyards. We camped at the Lake Casitas - a large man made trinking water lake. We made bicycle and hiking tours.
Also here on „Thanksgiving“ the area was totally packed and since we didn´t reserve we had to move to a simple tent place. But it was ok and we had the chance to observe how the Americans celebrated this big holiday.


 

Santa Barbara:

We visited Sybille and Christian in Santa Barbara and we had two fantastic days. Santa Barbara is for sure one of the most beautiful city in USA.

We parked our „baby“ in the yard of Sybille and Christian and left LA on Nov. 29. for Australia.

California - Dec. 15. to 21. 2011:

Unser Stellplatz bei Sybille & Christian

We were back to California on 15. 12. and stood overnight 2 more times at Sybilles and Christians house in Santa Barbara - a very big thank you to you two for this great hospitality.

16 days Australia and Fiji:

 

We followed an invitation of an old friend and previous collegue for his retirement party.

We visited Sydney and the Fiji Island.

 

You read about and see pictures of this tour under: "Australia / Fiji"